“How To Build A Putting Green in 2 Days!” – Part 2
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“How To Build A Putting Green in 2 Days!” – Part 2

“How To Build A Putting Green in 2 Days!” – Part 2

For more info on the greens shown in our 3-Part Series go check out AllProGreens be sure to check out their gallery of finished greens. It may give you an idea for how you would like your green to turn out.

From Installing Cups to Laying The Turf

Today is Part 2 in the MyGolfSpy & AllProGreens Series “How To Build A Putting Green in 2 Days!” . And today we are going to be getting to some of the cool parts of building your own green. Like where you are going to choose to put your holes…and actually installing them…and also laying out and installing the turf.

We wanted to cover this DIY project because we have gotten lots of emails over the years from people wanting to build their own green…but not knowing where to start. So this series is put in place to show you exact step-by-step instructions from start to finish…when you will have completed this series you will have a perfect AllProGreen to putt on in your own backyard.. And if you get stuck…don’t worry…just come back and re-watch one of the videos to make sure you have done that step correctly.

Step 7 – Installing The Cups

  • Arrange the cups on the sub base.
  • Mark the place where the cup will be permanently placed. This can be done by applying pressure to each cup and rotating it and will cause a small indentation in the sub base that will be used as a marker or reference point.
  • Using a small hand shovel dig a hole that is at least 2 inch larger around than the cup itself.

Because your cups are 6 inches tall you need to make your hole 6 inches in depth. The cups once placed in the holes should be one quarter inch above the top of the sub base material. Don’t worry if you go deeper because you can always back fill the hole with the loose dirt.

  • Add fast drying concrete mix powder around the entire outside perimeter.
  • Use the handle of your hand shovel to pack down the mix. Leave 1 inch of the cup exposed.
  • Add water to the concrete mix until it is saturated.
  • Next, add sub base around the exposed perimeter of the cup.
  • Compact the sub base around each cup by running the compactor directly over the cup. This will automatically level and make the cup flush with the top of the sub base.
  • Continue to do each hole in the same manner.

Step 8 – Final Touches On Base

You will notice small ridges caused from the plate compactor, on your finalized compacted base. These ridges must be removed. The putting green turf will fit like glove to your base so you want the base to be as smooth as possible.

  • Use the bottom of a shovel or hand tamp to flatten the ridges.
  • Use the drop spreader to distribute the commercial grade medium sand over the entire base. A 50 pound bag of sand will cover a 12 x 30 area.
  • Use your medium bristle push broom to lightly sweep the sand and any loose gravel off your base. This will fill in any cracks and crevasses and give you a super smooth base.

Step 9 – Joining Pieces

The seaming techniques create an invisible seam. You will be provided with black seaming tape strips and commercial strength outdoor adhesive. A 1/8 in. notched trowel is needed to spread the adhesive.

The fibers of the putting green turf are slanted or have a slight grain running the length of the roll.

Make sure the grain of each roll of putting green turf is running in the same direction.

  • Place the green on the edge of the sub base and roll it out.
  • Make certain there are no creases in the turf or it will affect the roll of the ball. If there are very small creases or bubbles don’t worry. When you infill the putting green the small creases and bubbles will go away with the weight of the infill.
  • ? Separate the fibers. Before spreading the infill it is necessary to separate the fibers of the putting green the best you can. This can be done by pushing your broom against the grain of the putting green. Also, brushing against the grain will help to stretch out any small creases or bubbles. You will always be brushing against the grain during the infill spreading process.
  • Brush the fibers against the grain several times in order to get the fibers vertical and to separate the fibers before infilling
  • Notice the black strip running the length of each roll.
  • Lay one roll over where the seam will come together so the black backing is facing up.
  • Take a utility knife with a brand new blade and cut between the first and second row of stitching the length of the roll.
  • Cut as close to the second row of stitching as possible without cutting into it. Take your time and do not cut into the stitching. Do this for only one of the rolls where your seam will be joined. Cutting between the rows of stitching will provide you with a guide-line and will remove the black strip. This will give you tight fit and a perfect seam when you join the rolls together.

Step 10 – Cutting The Rolls

  • Place your piece of tin flashing under the bottom roll that is being overlapped. The flashing will make for a solid and smooth cutting surface and cutting the seam will not disturb your smooth sub base.
  • Overlap the rolls about 2 inches the entire length at the seam so that the roll with the black strip still attached is on top.
  • Place bags of infill every 5 feet on both sides the length of the seam. The weight of the infill will not allow the rolls to move during the seaming process.
  • Starting at one end of the roll, cut the top overlapped roll of turf by following the edge of the bottom roll with your utility knife.
  • Continue this process the full length of the seam. This technique will make for a perfect cut and seam.
  • After the seam has been cut, join the two pieces together to ensure a tight fit before gluing the rolls together in step 12.

REMEMBER: Continue to replace your utility knife blade after cutting eight to ten feet in length. The goal is to cut through the turf and not rip through it.

Step 11 – Adding Seaming Tape & Adhesive

  • Nail down the black seaming strips on the sub base where the seam will come together.

HINT: There should an equal amount of black strip on each side of the seam.

  • Spread the adhesive over the entire surface of the black strip. Make sure the thickness of the adhesive is no more than 1/8 inch.
  • Allow 20 to 25 minutes for the adhesive to set up and get sticky before seaming.
  • Lay each piece of the putting green turf over at the seam.

Step 12 – Joining Rolls Together

  • Starting at one end of one roll, lay one roll onto the adhesive and seaming tape the full length of the seam.
  • Lay the second roll over as you join the two rolls together.
  • Press the seam in place as you go applying pressure to ensure good contact of the turf backing and the adhesive.
  • Once the entire seam has been placed together walk several times over the area that has been seamed.
  • Allow 30 minutes before starting the infill process.

To be continued…

Check back tomorrow for Part 3 of this Series “How To Build Your Own Putting Green”. You will learn how to finish your green off.

Related Articles:

“How To Build A Putting Green in 2 Days!” – Part 1

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      Cole

      10 years ago

      When will you post “Part 3”?

      Reply

      Rick Nesbitt

      12 years ago

      Please let me know when part 3 is available , also where to buy material.

      Reply

      Parker

      15 years ago

      If you live in San Diego, then you know LT will replace all your real grass with fake grass, and then get tackled by the neighborhood kids once it’s done.

      Reply

      BogeyThis

      15 years ago

      If I could only astroturf my whole yard!!! Dag on bermuda grass grows into everything!!! I could even open my own putting school.

      MGS – I do have a question/request outside of this though – I saw an infomercial the other day for a new driver – Air Force One. They put Nitrogen in the head of the club, etc. Got any details on that dohicky? Looked interesting to me.

      Reply

      mygolfspy

      15 years ago

      Actually AllProGreens has the turf if you want to do your whole yard…you have to go check out the pics…I think I might do it as well.

      And Bogey…I did try the Power-Bilt Nitrogen charged driver. Although none of us were impressed…the feel and sound were bad at best. The concept is a twist on another driver that came out about 20 years ago.

      Reply

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