The Benefits of a Specialty Pitching Wedge
Golf Wedges

The Benefits of a Specialty Pitching Wedge

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The Benefits of a Specialty Pitching Wedge

Is it time to ditch the pitch (ing-wedge)?

Not to spoil the plot, but I’m not actually suggesting that anyone should take their pitching wedge out of the bag. I click-baited you. Don’t expect an apology. A dubious ploy, perhaps, but I’m hoping I can persuade you to think differently about a spot in your bag for which you may never have realized that you have options.

Have you ever considered ditching your set-matching pitching wedge for a specialty alternative?

Three specialty pitching wedges being measured

What Is a Specialty Wedge?

Before we get too deep into this, let’s define specialty wedge. I’m not suggesting it’s time to take the Square Strike plunge. For our purposes, a specialty wedge is any legitimate wedge that isn’t sold as part of an iron set. Legitimate is subjective but what I’m talking about are familiar names like SM8, T20, Mack Daddy, MG2, RTX, etc.. You get the gist.

Almost all of you carry at least one specialty wedge. For many of you, both your sand and lob wedges are specialty wedges.

Your gap wedge – that’s an interesting one. As the off-the-rack set composition has shifted from 3-PW to 4- and even 5-GW, roughly two-thirds of you have chosen a set-matching gap wedge. Set-matching gap wedge usage rates among game-improvement or super game-improvement iron players are likely higher still.

A diagram showing the pros and cons of specialty pitching wedges

A Specialty Pitching Wedge?

Given how many of us are content to roll with the gap wedges our iron-makers gave us, it’s reasonable to assume that most of you haven’t given so much as a moment’s thought to moving deeper into the bag.

You may not know it but just about every wedge manufacturer makes wedges with lofts as strong as 46 degrees. That’s a pitching wedge, my friends. With a little help from the bending machine, most can get to 44 degrees. That’s a loft-jacked pitching wedge which means that a specialty pitching wedge is a viable option for nearly everyone.

Have you considered dumping your set-matching pitching wedge for an equivalently lofted specialty wedge?

Anybody?

The heads of three specialty pitching wedges

Who Plays a Specialty Pitching Wedge?

At some point, we’ll survey our readers to find the answer but, for now, we’ll rely on the PGA TOUR. While the numbers fluctuate from week to week, over a course of a season, roughly 66 percent of Vokey (the No. 1 Wedge Brand on Tour) guys carry a specialty pitching wedge instead of the matching-set wedge.

To put some names on it, Justin Thomas and Jordan Spieth are both Vokey guys while Webb Simpson prefers the set-matching Titleist pitching wedge.

Conversely, Mizuno says the majority of its Tour staff plays set-matching wedges. What’s fascinating is that a couple of years ago when Mizuno looked at specialty wedge usage on Tour, it found an unexpected dividing line. Among the top 40 in the world, nearly to a man, those younger than 35 carried a specialty pitching wedge while those over 35 favored the set wedge. It’s likely no coincidence that when Mizuno builds sets for younger professionals, the majority choose a specialty pitching wedge.

I’m not saying that set wedges are for older golfers and specialty wedges are for the kids but it’s a reasonable inference that golfers, regardless of ability, are largely creatures of habit. If you’ve always played the set pitching wedge, there’s a good chance you always will.

What are the Benefits of a Specialty Wedge?

Three specialty pitching wedge heads on a table

The argument for choosing a specialty wedge over the set wedge boils down to two factors: better (purpose-engineered) grooves and greater versatility.

Better Grooves

The majority of set wedges – especially those in the game-improvement and super game-improvement categories, offer a standard iron groove. Typically, that means the grooves are stamped (pressed into the face) instead of milled like most wedge-wedges. Set-wedge groove specs typically aren’t nearly as tight. They don’t really need to be because set wedges aren’t typically designed with an eye towards greenside performance.

Compared to the majority of set wedges, most specialty wedges offer a higher center of gravity and narrower and deeper milled grooves. That’s going to give a more penetrating trajectory with not only more spin (more stopping power), but more consistent spin.

If you’ve had your fill of fliers with your set-matching wedge, you should definitely consider dumping it for a specialty wedge. Not only will you experience fewer jumpers, but the trajectory will come down as well.

“The ball comes out significantly lower even on chip shots,” says Mizuno’s Chris Voshall. Chris dumped his set wedge a few years ago and hasn’t looked back.

Two specialty pitching wedge heads on a table

Greater Versatility

The other argument for a specialty pitching wedge is greater versatility. If you use your pitching wedge greenside or for long bunker shots, you may appreciate the little bit of sole camber and trailing-edge relief common to most specialty wedges. Admittedly, stock pitching wedge grinds won’t give you the ability to manipulate the face around the green quite like a C or M Grind does but it will allow for a bit more creativity than the typical set wedge.

“A specialty wedge is designed for versatility in a way a set wedge isn’t.” – Jeremy Stone, Director of Marketing, Vokey Wedges

It’s obvious enough but it’s worth mentioning that a limitation of set-matching wedges is that they’re almost invariably designed to look like the rest of the iron set (go figure). With cavityback models, that creates a design compromise. Set-matching wedges typically have less bounce (every wedge designer I know will tell you that bounce is your friend) and the placement of weight (low, back and around the perimeter) isn’t ideal for golfers who like to flight their wedges down – as most better players do.

The pros and cons of specialty pitching wedges

The Argument Against a Specialty Wedge

While it varies depending on the irons in your bag, the biggest argument for playing a set-matching wedge is forgiveness.

Bear in mind that weight is a significant contributor to MOI (part of the forgiveness formula) and wedge heads are heavy. That means the dropoff in forgiveness moving to a blade-style wedge isn’t as steep as you might think. It’s also true that. as loft increases. MOI becomes less of a factor in the forgiveness equation but, nevertheless, there is a decline.

Vokey’s Jeremy Stone counters with an assertion that forgiveness in a wedge comes from the grind – how it interacts with the turf for a given golfer on a given shot. This is indisputably true but Stone concedes that Vokey’s research has found that cavityback designs are more forgiving in the conventional sense until lofts enter the 50- to 52-degree (gap wedge) range.

This part of the discussion boils down to what type of forgiveness you need.

A More Forgiving Specialty Option

One head of a specialty pitching wedge

If conventional forgiveness is a concern, that doesn’t mean the set wedge is your only option.

Both Cleveland (CBX Series) and Mizuno’s (S Series) offer some of the performance characteristics of a specialty wedge in a larger, more forgiving package. These types of designs allow you to reap the performance benefits afforded by groove and grind, keep the forgiveness, and do it all with a club that looks more like your irons. The larger head won’t move through the turf quite the same way and you won’t get the same degree of trajectory control as a smaller, high-center-of-gravity wedge but that’s a reasonable compromise – especially for a game-improvement or super game-improvement player.

The pros and cons of big specialty pitching wedges

Within the larger picture, forgiveness can be a legitimate concern but choosing a specialty wedge doesn’t necessarily mean giving up forgiveness and it definitely shouldn’t be the sole determining factor in the decision.

Is a Specialty Pitching Wedge right for you?

We’ve given you the pros and the cons. Now it’s time to make a decision. Vokey’s Jeremy Stone and Mizuno’s Chris Voshall agree that your choice of pitching wedge should be driven by purpose and function.

How do you use your pitching wedge?

If it’s strictly an extension of your iron set – a 10-iron – that you use almost exclusively for full shots, you’re probably better off sticking with your set wedge. This is especially true if you have game-improvement or super game-improvement clubs or already flight the ball too low.

Three specialty pitching wedges being compared

If, however, you use your pitching wedge around the green for pitch and chip shots, out of bunkers or flighted knock-down shots, your game will likely benefit from the switch.

As with most fitting decisions, there’s no exact science here so it may be worth picking up a specialty pitching wedge (even if it’s dirt cheap on eBay) to see if helps lower your scores.

“Hitting it, trusting it and understanding it,” says Stone, “is the most confidence-inspiring way to make that choice.”

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Tony Covey

Tony Covey

Tony Covey

Tony is the Editor of MyGolfSpy where his job is to bring fresh and innovative content to the site. In addition to his editorial responsibilities, he was instrumental in developing MyGolfSpy's data-driven testing methodologies and continues to sift through our data to find the insights that can help improve your game. Tony believes that golfers deserve to know what's real and what's not, and that means MyGolfSpy's equipment coverage must extend beyond the so-called facts as dictated by the same companies that created them. Most of all Tony believes in performance over hype and #PowerToThePlayer.

Tony Covey

Tony Covey

Tony Covey





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      greg schulte

      11 months ago

      have mizuno pro 225 irons-love them, except the pw. swithing to the vokey 46* bent to 45. much better all around contact & ball flight.

      Reply

      Joe Dubuke

      12 months ago

      I love my set gap wedge (49*) for full stock shots and chipping around the greens. If I need to get air born with spin around greens I use 54* and 58* Titleist wedges. My wedges still cut ball covers on full shots. They were the last wedges made before the groove reduction. Anybody know if I can still have these wedges in the bag for amateur tournament play?

      Reply

      Darren

      2 years ago

      I used a cbx2 46 while I was using GIs. I hated the look and lack of touch with my set PW and the Cleveland improved that but introduced gapping issues, despite having the same loft. Since moving to one piece cavities/MCs (zx7) I actually really enjoy using the PW (and more) closer to green when called for. Zipcore gapper and the workhorses are an sm8 54.12D and Zipcore 58/9 full face. As you’d expect the Cleveland wedges and forged Srixon irons blend together much more smoothly than my old Rogue X power shovels..

      Reply

      Robert Hebert

      3 years ago

      My iron set begins with 28.5* 6i, to 44* PW & 48* GW. I added three forged-blade wedges: 52*, 56*, and 60*. All nine 1rons have 117-gram TT steel shafts. My set includes Dr, 4W, 4H, 5H, putter.

      Reply

      William Price

      3 years ago

      I find this article very interesting. I’ve never heard of a specialty wedge and I’ve been playing for years. If it’ll save me a couple strokes I’ll try it. I definitely want to experiment with it. Thanks for the article.

      Reply

      John Hunt

      3 years ago

      I’ve just invested in the Cleveland CBX 2 wedges 46 50 54 and 58 Love them. Always hated the stock Pitching wedge. The CBX 46 is magic

      Reply

      Tyler

      3 years ago

      What are your carry distances for each one ?

      Reply

      Gerald Teigrob

      4 years ago

      ‘I used to play specialty wedges in my gap to lob wedges but now with my Cobra sets including a decent pitching and gap wedge, ‘m going to be sticking with matching pitching wedges and gap wedges for some time to come. I;m happy with the 45 and 50 lofts on my pitching and gap wedge and I have a feeling moving over to a specialty wedge to replace either would do me any good at this point. My specialty wedges start at the sand and lob wedge and I’m good with that!

      Reply

      Art

      4 years ago

      Lots of good comments. I’ve played both set wedges and specialty wedges. Both work, just in different ways. My 54 Vokey F grind is my go to club for 50 to 105 yards. My 60 Vokey K grind handles everything from 50 yards in. Not sure I have any interest in anything else for 105 on in. The next club is where it gets interesting. I currently play a 50 Vokey F grind. My “set” is Titleist CB 716. The difference is forgiveness between the CB pitching wedge and the 50 deg Vokey is pretty stark. I would be very happy if Titleist made a gap wedge to go with the CB irons. The reason for this is that I only use the gap wedge for full shots. This is why my next set of irons will most likely include a “set” gap wedge.

      Reply

      Donn Rutkoff

      4 years ago

      I have 5 Mizuno wedges. My favorite is the 52 degree x 9 bounce blue S5. I even bot a spare. Other lofts include S18 and T7 models. But I recently got excellently fitted for a set of short irons, 8 9 and w and I love them, Ping I500s, I use the “set” wedge and my distances are OK.. I like the I500 short irons so much I extended down to 6 iron and might even add the 5.

      Reply

      Mike Bianchi

      4 years ago

      I use my pitching wedge for chipping around the green when I need runout. If I want more spin I use my gap wedge. For even more spin I’ll use my Callaway PM Grind sand wedge or lob wedge.

      The article doesn’t address it but the ball you’re playing also has a lot to do with spin. I only play Urethane cover balls that provide good spin on even partial wedge shots.

      Reply

      Jamie Turner

      4 years ago

      Well considering a ‘pitching’ wedge these days goes 135+ yards, it’s not really pitching anymore is it? It’s a 10 iron that fills the gap in your bag between 9 and wedges. It’s hard to get much ‘specialty’ from 135-140 yards unless you are a superb iron player like a Tiger Woods. So unless you are advocating for Tiger, then this article is pointless to the rest of us.

      I will say this – we’ve gotten away from superior iron play lately and turned the game into a driver/wedge competition, and that’s unfortunate.

      Go hit 10,000 balls with your PW, lock it into a good yardage, make it your bread n butter club, and be able to choose 135 or 136 or 137 yards and hit it perfectly… and enjoy the purity of the game.

      You may enjoy it more that way… just my zero cents when it comes to advice from a former pro and 15 handicapper who doesn’t get to play much anymore :)

      Reply

      Craig Edgar

      4 years ago

      Wedges – i play 4 wedge set not including PW as a specialty wedge but when i order my new Zipcores or T20s it will 46, 50, 54, 58 and 62 . Losing control / shots with set PW – you do not realise until you try it in yor fitting ?????????

      Reply

      Justin M

      4 years ago

      I purchased a set of Titleist MB 718 and instead of the set composition wedge I got a vokey 48 degree. It does work well, however im not sure the difference between a 718 MB PW and a 48 Vokey. for me as I have never tested them against each other. I purchased it through a classified section on a website.

      HOWEVER, when I went to a golf retailer or online website to see how much I could get in credit or dollar value for them (not cause I was looking to sell, just curiosity) I was told that set was INELIGIBLE for trade because the set did not include a matching pitching wedge, which apparently is a requirement to re-sell. So this could be another downfall that was not mentioned in the article. Instead the person would have to try and sell them on their own which may not be a bad thing, but could be a inconvenience if you cant find a buyer.

      Reply

      mikeanthony

      4 years ago

      Loved this article! Great write up, along with some great comments from our readers.

      I find the line of demarcation with respects to set wedge or speciality wedge at 35 yrs of age really interesting. I’m 39 and my previous iron set were custom built Snake Eyes 600b and 600c combo set. My GW, SW and LW were all Taylormade TP wedges. Current set is TM M1 irons and while I’ve had success with them, the PW & GW feel like shovels compared to my 54° and 58° SM7s … almost pulled the trigger and bought a 46° and 48° in their new SM8s to replace my set PW/GW. But alas, ended up going with Cobra’s One Length irons and I’m back to square one.

      Reply

      BM

      4 years ago

      Hi Mike, how were the snake eyes irons? I came across these in London as my fitter has a ton of these. He let me borrow a 3 iron and I was amazed at how soft these were. Belive its a US company that is out of business now. Keen to know your views as am thinking to get a driving iron to start with. Thanks.

      Reply

      mikeanthony

      4 years ago

      Absolutely loved them. I still have them in my garage and will hit them from time to time down at the range. Just pure joy when I hit ‘em flush.

      My irons prior to the Snakeyes were the Taylormade Rac TPs, but they were stolen from my car. At the time I was in a pinch and on a budget, got the Snakeyes … and couldn’t believe how incredibly soft they were at that price point. More specifically, and to date, they have been the best irons that check up on the greens

      My game just isn’t in single digits anymore nor do I practice as much. I play a lot, but the practice is not what it used to be.

      FYI, if you’re a amateur tournament player, they’re non-conforming grooves. And yes, they were previously owned by Golfsmith that has since been sold on to Golf Galaxy, I believe.

      JJ

      4 years ago

      Got fitted by Bob Vokey for a 46 along with a 51 55 and 60 in SM7s a while ago. The 46 did work a lot better than my set PW but I then lost confidence with it and stopped using it. I’m quite happy with my set PW now and haven’t been tempted to pull the little used SM7 46 back out. That said, Bob Vokey is a fantastic man who was enormously helpful. I’ll stick with his clubs in my other three wedges.

      Reply

      Miguel

      4 years ago

      Great article. Makes me think and I’m compelled to go 4-PW on next set and get a specialty GW. I currently game a 4-GW JPX-850 Forged. Would like more spin and lower trajectory into the greens from 115 out.

      Reply

      Tony S

      4 years ago

      I changed all my irons this year. After looking and checking to many specifications I selected the irons…. Wait… Golfworks Mucle Back Blades. I’m a mid handicap and just went out and shot 6over from the whites. But what about the wedges? Yes them too. The WTS wedges performed to hop and stop and sometimes came back a little. I keep my forged irons and wedges in the bag and doubt I will shop somewhere else. 5 Stars to Golfworks.com

      Reply

      Simms

      4 years ago

      I play a couple Golf Works fairways, but now that DICK’S owns Golf Works and Malby is gone I notice things starting to change selling more Top Flite ,Maxfli and Tommy Armour products (Dicks owned labels) even some of the Golf Works heads are gone…..how much longer are their private label heads going to be any good?

      Reply

      scott

      4 years ago

      I’ve tried both both ways I played for a few years with a ,46-50-54-58 Volkey set up then changed to just a 54 -58 Volkey . My full shots with my matching set iron were spot on . The only change was I had steel shaft instead of graphite shafts in my set. to each there own

      Reply

      George

      4 years ago

      I recently considered getting a Glide 50 degree to replace my i210 U wedge….but the. I started flagging approach shots with the U wedge and thought I’d be crazy to replace it.

      I think where to go on this is so player and iron set specific. If I had P790 rocket launchers, I would definitely be looking at specialty wedges from 45 degrees and up. With i210s, the distance is so consistent, I really don’t know how much I’d be gaining.

      I only use my U wedge green side if I have a very long chip that I need to run out. If I want bite, my 54 and 58 Glide take over.

      With that said, I haven’t ruled out getting a 50….but I can’t see myself touching the PW.

      Reply

      Rob L

      4 years ago

      I threw out my set PW with my old gamers. Just got fitted into JPX hot metals and am planning on keeping the set PW. I primarily only use it for full shots and bump and runs around the green anyways.

      I need the extra forgiveness anyways. Loved the specialized 46* wedge I had when I hit it well, but the misses were bad. Now I can miss a little and still get it close to the green.

      Reply

      Adam

      4 years ago

      Love the article, very insightful and tons of great info! I’m looking to purchase a new iron set soon, and the reality of my game is that I don’t have a confident 120-130 distance wedge. The solution for now has been to choke up on my current set-matching PW and hope for decently consistent results. This post and the replies have been super helpful.

      Thanks for the great content everyone!

      Reply

      Willie T

      4 years ago

      Have to say that wedge play has never been my strong suit. Early on I “specialized” my old set of Tommy Armour 845s Silver Scots (yes the originals from the late 1980’s) with Ping Eye2’s in 50.5, 53.5 (Eye2+), 57.5. They work nicely off the 48*PW of the TA’s. I currently play Callaway Diablo Edge irons (graphite/Sr flex) 5i-PW. The PW is 44* (my old 9i loft), so I see them as a club stronger. To compliment the Diablos I have Cleveland CBX 50* and 58*. I love hitting them and have found that I can play any distance 100yds in with those two clubs by varying the backswing length. If I need run out on a chip, I can use the 8i or 9i of the Diablo irons.. I really like having fewer clubs to keep the choices at a minimum.

      Reply

      John Mackessack

      4 years ago

      I hear you Willie! As someone who likes to walk and carry (when my back allows), I yearn to simplify the set. And then rely on shot-making.

      Having said that, I have RTXs to go with my Srixon irons – the whole set is bent a degree weak, with the wedges a degree strong to gap 4 degrees. I could easily lose a wedge and probably not notice.

      Reply

      Mike

      4 years ago

      It’s gotten to the point where I don’t really regard any my irons or wedges with a name (pitching wedge, nine iron etc.). The lofts have been so jacked over the years that I just make sure my lofts are properly gapped. I prefer the set PW and GW but can honestly say I haven’t had many opportunities to try out specialty wedges in lieu of them. How do I do that (forget the launch monitor, I need to see real results on the course). Do I buy one on eBay and then observe? I guess that’s the only way.

      Reply

      BM

      4 years ago

      SPOT On and GR8 Article guys!!
      I switched to not buying the PW as part of the custom set few years back and bought a 48, 52, 56 and 60 wedge set. First two times it was the MD4, last year was Custom All black SM7, ditched the SM7 this year and got RTX4. In my personal opinion the SM7 were not well fitted for me. The RYX4 are super wedges and very under rated. I am now tinkering with the idea of having the Honma 48 degree as my pitching wedge but keep the RTX4 52,56 and 60.
      So the article is very practicle, loaded with good facts and to me all this makes lot of sense. For those who have not please try it and you will never look back at buying a PW as part of your iron set. Cheers MGS!!

      Reply

      Leigh

      4 years ago

      Years ago I had a typical ‘big-name’ set of ‘game improvement’ irons. I was wondering why I couldnt score well and researched and found ‘loft creep’. OK, so my PW was really a 9 iron! Maybe even an 8 from my youth!!! I bought a renegar 52 and immediately started scoring better. I am now carrying Renegar 48, 52. 56 & 58 wedges. I dumped the 3 & 5 FW and carry a 4 FW and a 4 Hybrid/iron. 5-PW set. Some days/some courses I could probably take out Driver and put the 3FW back in without penalty and maybe actually score better! Handicapped players typically think they need gapping on the longer clubs (which they hit inconsistently) whereas I believe the longer clubs only exist to get me into wedge territory. The 200 yard fairway into the green looks great but typically leaves you with a 3 putt, I sink way more putts from inside 10′, having wedge options gets me there!

      Reply

      Dave

      3 years ago

      I bought a gap wedge from a set I was thinking about getting because my current set didn’t have one. I liked it, but decided to go with nicer sand and lob wedges and dropped the gap wedge.

      Reply

      Michael Pasvantis

      4 years ago

      I actually carry 2 “pitching wedges”, the one that came with my set of hollow body distance irons was 44 degrees and that ended up creating a gap to my, well, gap wedge that is a 50 degree Mizuno T20. I purchased the 46 degree T20 and had it bent to 47 degrees. I ended up taking out my 5 iron that I hit about the same distance as my 6 iron and then adjusted my hybrids accordingly.

      Reply

      Dr. Strangelove

      4 years ago

      With loft jacking as it is, this could mean 4 or more specialty wedges (PW, GW, SW, LW) and only 5 set irons (5,6,7,8,9). This would be convenient for the OEMs since they make more money on the specialty wedges. And have convinced many to change them annually.

      Reply

      Uli B.

      4 years ago

      I swapped my set gap wedge TM P790 for Vokey SM7 48 deg. After a couple of rounds I reckoned how much more accuracy I got from it vs my PW. Then decided to swap the PW for 46 deg SM8 bent to 45 deg. I don’t think I will ever but set PW or GW again.

      Reply

      George

      4 years ago

      Maybe you should replace all of your P790s with T100s/T200s. You may see similar results with the 9, 8, 7, etc…

      Reply

      Jeff

      4 years ago

      Really enjoyed the piece. Had not considered the groove milling aspect of after-market wedges versus set wedge. But I have first hand.experience with the issue of heavier shaft weights in after-market clubs. Shame on me for not getting fitted at the time . I know better now!

      Reply

      Joe

      4 years ago

      Very good article. One of my considerations would be the amount of change to the bounce angle if a specialty wedge were strengthened in loft. The article mentions bending a 46* wedge to a 44* wedge to better match the lofts of your existing full set. I guess then you’d get two gap wedges. But would the new PW bent to 44* have less bounce such that it would tend to dig and possibly cause fat shots more often on mishits?

      Reply

      Jimmy

      4 years ago

      Strengthen loft = lower bounce & more offset.
      Weaken loft = higher bounce & less offset

      My MP-20 HMB set wedge has only six degrees of bounce. Bending a 46.10 Vokey down to 44, it would still have eight degrees of bounce. Still more than the set wedge.

      Reply

      Funkaholic

      4 years ago

      Since I got fitted in the Mizuno T20 wedges, I am ready to dump my set wedge and get a 46* in the T20.. Of course now I want to fill the rest of the bag with the MP20’s.

      Reply

      Jimmy

      4 years ago

      Good luck with the MP-20 4-iron! No thank you.

      MP-20 HMB 4-6 + MP-20 7-9 + T20 wedges would be a great setup.

      Reply

      Donn Rutkoff

      4 years ago

      Ah, a chance to promote Mizuno driving / utility / hybrid iron, It does have a wide sole so you can’t treat it like a regular long iron, but the Miz MP18 (or now MP20?) MMC FLI-HI is good long. I wonder what driving iron Ariyeh Jutanugarn uses???

      JAS HERRINGTON

      4 years ago

      I have 12 extra wedges , played them all. I use the pw around the green & I like the run out I get w it. I hole out alot. But w Vokey`s they chek up alot & dont run out. So I`m w my standard Mizuno Hot Metal Pro. My specality wedge is my Cleveland RTX 4 58 degree w 3 degrees bounce. I luv it.

      Reply

      Donn Rutkoff

      4 years ago

      12 wow that beats me. I have 5 Mizuno GFF wedges.

      Reply

      dberger

      4 years ago

      bought cbx2 46 52 56 60…………best thing happened to my game. replacing the 60 with a 60 with less bounce though.. s18 likely…. blended perfect with my new cleveland uhx irons. dropped my cap from a 2 to a plus .1 in a month since i got this setup.

      Reply

      Jimmy

      4 years ago

      Consider the CBX Full Face for the 60. That’s what I ended up doing. It’s smaller & dark finish. Super nice.

      Reply

      Steve S

      4 years ago

      I use my set pitching wedge to chip around the green when I want the ball to release and roll out. I use my specialty gap and sand for chips that need some bite. So no, I won’t be replacing my PW anytime soon…

      Reply

      Jonathan

      4 years ago

      Same here. I don’t want a lot of bite on my PW (AP2 46 degrees).

      Reply

      Tony P

      4 years ago

      I have spent a lot of time refining my set. A mix of hybrids, irons, and vokey wedges. For me it all about distance of clubs that is consistent. Carry 6 – GW Mizuno Hot Metal with PW IS 120-127, GW 109-117, then 54 Vokey 100 +/- 5 yards, 58 Vokey 85 +/- 5, and 62 Vokey 58 – 72 all for full swing. Chip with every thing from 9i to 58 depening on run or stopping desire. Sand use is usually 58 because it has most bounce. Use 62 for hard pan and packed sand. So distance is my deciding factor for full swing then use greenside finesse shots depending on turf, grass, and situation. So I end up being someone who uses up to GW from set snd then 3 “speciality” wedges. Am 71 and have refined bag this way for last 8 years..

      Reply

      Joe Domill

      4 years ago

      thanks this one of the best articles explaining the use of different wedges

      Reply

      Dave

      4 years ago

      Very good article! This is something I’ve been thinking about recently, as I have a set wedge and I like chipping low, so I’ve been using it from just off / around the greens… thanks for the article, I’m making the jump to a specialty wedge!

      Reply

      Douglas Mael

      4 years ago

      I play specialty wedges beginning with my gap wedge (a forged Scratch wedge, 47* loft, bent to 49*), and my “set wedge” began life with a ridiculously strong loft of 42*, which I immediately bent to 44*. However, I still consider that PW to be more a 9-iron. Because that Scratch wedge that I play as my gap wedge is getting quite “long in the tooth”, I ordered a new Ben Hogan 48* wedge, which I will bend to 49* loft as a candidate to replace the current Scratch gap wedge. I have long been a firm believer in playing specialty wedges whenever those clubs will be used to hit anything but full iron shots.

      Reply

      ChipNRun

      4 years ago

      Big deciding factor is how one uses the PW. If it’s basically as a 10-iron (full shots), the set PW will get it done. Some longer hitters do this because the “10-iron” gives them a shorter full shot they need to keep their yardstick consistent.

      In my case, I found greenside duplication of my old iron set PW and a Cleveland CG14 GW. So, I completely retooled to three Callaway wedges: MD3 in 48*/8 and 54*/12, plus an MD4 in 58*/8, C-grind. Basically, the 48* is a combo PW/GW. Three wedges is easier to practice than four, and really cuts down on close-in indecision. As a side note, I include my 9i in my wedge matrix, using half and 3/4 swing yardage to plug a couple of gaps.

      Reply

      Doug Hart

      4 years ago

      I think what’s missing here is the fact that specialty wedges typically all have heavier shafts. So, if you’re a slower swinger like me and have lighter graphite shafts in my irons, there is quite a transition going from a 70-80 gram graphite 9 iron to a 120 gram specialty pitching wedge shaft.

      Reply

      Douglas Mael

      4 years ago

      Doug Hart – Very good point. My iron set has KBS This graphite shafts (S-flex), which weigh a little more than 80 grams, and my gap wedge has a 110 gram Aerotech SteelFiber graphite shaft, while my 54* and 58* wedges have heavier steel shafts in them. I am a bit concerned going to a KBS Tour steel shaft in the Ben Hogan gap wedge that should be arriving in the next couple of days, and hope that I won’t need to replace that shaft with lighter- weight graphite.

      Reply

      Kenny B

      4 years ago

      Most wedges can be custom ordered with lighter shafts at little to no upcharge. I have 84g steel shafts in my irons, and all of my specialty wedges have the 95g KBS Tour 90. Nice wedge shaft for us slower swingers.

      Reply

      David Silkroski

      4 years ago

      Look on eBay, there are plenty of options to create you own wedge setup. Mix and match for me (Titleist, Cleveland and Oh my one from Golfsmith)

      Reply

      Gregor

      4 years ago

      I guess I’m a set wedge guy, with my Mizuno’s having both a Gap and Pitching wedge, to which I also bag Vokey 52 and 60. The set wedges are for full shots and the odd pitch around the greens that need to release, whilst the Vokeys perform all the creative shots around the green. Its weird that I find the Vokey 52 hard to hit full, and I just don;t have the confidence in it for full shots of around 95 – 100, wheras the Gap wedge is a goto confident shot at 105 – 120.. I guess that the weight and feel, plus the forgiveness, really matters on the full shots.

      Reply

      Walter

      4 years ago

      So something like pickup a set of the new Edison wedges. Terry had a article in WRX about his new set and how much better they are than your “set wedges”, complete with charts showing how much better they are. Interesting though when I emailed him and asked some questions about his thoughts against cavity backed wedges( as there seems to be a number of major companies who have them in their sets) he never answered me back.

      Reply

      JL

      4 years ago

      Obviously it depends on the golfer and their iron set, personally I don’t use my 46* set PW for anything other than full shots, I am currently gaming the Cobra MIM Black wedges in 50*, 54* and 58* I will use those when I am feeling creative so I have no itch to change from my set PW.

      Reply

      Kevin

      4 years ago

      I’ve thought about it, but I’m not sure there’s any real gain for me. I rarely chip with my PW….although that is partly because I find it easier with my specialty GW, but after all these years I would still reach for the GW and I chip even more with the SW and LW. I have gotten flyers with my PW, but also with my 9i so where do I draw the line? I have heard that some testing has shown that you don’t really need CB forgiveness from a club with more than 50* of loft and that seems reasonable. So if I were to change I might tend to look at Clevelands CB type specialty wedge rather than a blade type PW. But I don’t think my PW is costing me strokes and my time and money are probably better spent on other clubs.

      Reply

      Nick

      4 years ago

      Forgot a benefit of the specialty wedge: replacing it on a higher frequency than the rest of the irons. You get a set wedge you naturally lean towards only replacing it when you get an entirely new set, even though it probably gets tons more wear than the rest of the set. Use a specialty wedge and now you naturally think about it differently.

      Reply

      Stephen Pearcy

      4 years ago

      If you don’t trust the PW in your set, why do you trust the other clubs?

      Reply

      Tony Covey

      4 years ago

      It’s not about trust. It’s about understanding that set wedges and specialty wedges at PW lofts can serve different functions. It’s not a perfect analogy, but it’s a bit like choosing between a long iron and a hybrid.

      What level of forgiveness do you need, under what conditions to you hit it (or choose not to hit it), what’s the desired trajectory?

      You wouldn’t ask a hybrid player “If you don’t trust the 4-iron in your set, why do you trust the other clubs?”

      It’s basically the opposite pole of the same conversation.

      Reply

      David Van Vliet

      4 years ago

      I was fitted for game improvement irons. The fitting was based on a 7 iron. I’m happy with the 9-6 or 5 iron. However the sole of the club on the GW and the PW is a little thicker than I really like. I’ve never been able to hit my GW consistently. My fitter told me that I should not be using a 50@ wedge, I needed a “game improvement” GWwedge. I was hitting my 54 and 58 very well so I took a risk and purchased a 50@ wedge. I could not be happier. I’m thinking about adding a 46 to my set.

      Mark L

      4 years ago

      If you play one length irons, you really don’t have much of a choice. I tried some specialty wedges, but the swing weight on a longer shaft was too much. Shortening your wedges, as some suggest, defeats the purpose of playing one lengths. Would love to see wedges that have adjustable weights screws so that you could adjust weights down to 280 grams, that would get the swing weight closer to most one length sets.

      Reply

      Patrick Sullivan

      4 years ago

      What about shafts for a specialty wedge… I use DG S200 (127g) wedge shafts in my 50-54-58. I use DG 120 X100 (120g) shafts in my 4-9… Would fitters suggest putting the wedge shaft or the set shaft in the 46* specialty wedge…

      Reply

      Funkaholic

      4 years ago

      Either the same as your set or one step softer is pretty common. I play Rifle 6.5 in my irons and 6.0 in my wedges.

      Reply

      Pete S

      4 years ago

      The challenge with the specialty wedge is getting it fit. Seems much harder to get everything right.

      Reply

      XERPRO

      4 years ago

      Exactly. Proper Loft and Bounce fitting is imperative

      Reply

      Sean

      4 years ago

      Community Fitting!

      This article is something I’ve been thinking about forever. Would welcome any questions or suggestions as I might be due to upgrade the wedges this coming offseason. I play JPX 900 Forged irons (stronger lofts) with this wedge set up:

      45* PW – 150 yard club. Struggle a lot in the 130-140 range. 95% of my shots with this club are full. 9i goes about 165.
      50* GW – 125 yard club. 85% of my shots with this are full (the other non-full shots are in that 90-115 range)
      55* SW (9* Bounce) – 100 yard club, been using it as my 50-100 as well. I’ve just started getting comfortable with this as a legit 100 yard club. Prior to this month I never hit it full. I’ve now got a bit of confidence from 100.
      60* LW (10*) – Don’t hit this full. Use mostly around the greens.

      I hate the spread of 165 to 150 to 125 to 100. At 40*, 45*, 50*, 55*, and 60*—I’m not sure that bending the the 45 to a 46 and the 50 to a 52 is the right move? But I think about it a lot.

      Any advice would be appreciated! I don’t mind the detail if you have a question that could help me figure this out, fire away!!!

      Reply

      Tom

      4 years ago

      Sean, with as far as you hit it, you may consider different gapping. I am not far off of your distances and I am thinking about going 46, 50, 54 and 58. My frustration is, I lost the paperwork from when I got fitted for my irons and wedges so I cannot remember if I am 1 or 2 degrees upright!! :-)) Regardless, I think a specialty PW has merit.

      Obviously get fitted by a pro or if get yourself in front of a trackman if you play at a good club that may have one.

      Reply

      Sean

      4 years ago

      Interesting set up you have there.

      45* down to 46* should take me from 150 to 145ish.
      I’d definetly take the 50 to 51 if I did that, from 125 down to about 120-ish.

      Then my gapping would be 100 (55*), 120, 145, 165; which seems better than 100, 125, 150?

      Matt W

      4 years ago

      Sean,
      Bend your gap stronger to 49 to close that 25 yard gap a touch. Add in a 54* and 58*. You could make the 54* a 53* for yardage purposes. Look at rest of bag as closing the gaps on scoring clubs should save you more than you lose carrying an extra hybrid or 5 wood.

      Your bag is what I’m considering doing as I currently have a 45* p, 50* gap, 54*, 58* and 62*. I’m thinking about adding a 4 hybrid or driving iron up top and dumping a wedge. However I am worrried about too many partial swings as now I have a 15 yard gap in all those clubs.

      Reply

      sean

      4 years ago

      Driver, 2i, 3w, 4i-PW, SW, LW, Putter is my current set up.

      54*, 58* and 62* is interesting. Would have to leave out my 2i or my driver (dont really hit either at this moment). Also not sure how much a 62* would get use from me over the 60*. Considering how infrequently I hit that; maybe I keep that at 60, bring hte 55* to a 56*, Take the 45* to 46*, take the 50* to 52*, leaving me with: 60*, 56*, 52* 46.

      40 is my 165.
      46 becomes my 145 club.
      52 becomes my 120 club.
      56 is now a 100.
      60* is mainly for greenside, but as I get better with the 56*, hopefully the sixty can turn into an 85-ish?

      Love where your head is at and the feedback. Thanks!

      Max Johnson

      4 years ago

      The 9 O’clock swing is your friend. On both my PW and my Gap wedge, I know what the “full swing” distance is, and how far a certain length of abbreviated swing will travel. For example, my PW is 125 on a full swing and 115 if my backswing goes parallel to my shoulders (9 O’Clock). My Gap wedge travels 110 on a full swing and 100 yds at 9 O’Clock. My 56 is 90 yds full and 75-80 at 9 O’clock. I can hit my 60 80 yards on a full swing but would rather not, so from 75 yards and in the club I play depends on the conditions of the shot.

      Just yesterday I played a 9 iron on a pitch and run with 40 yds to the front and 54 to the pin. Flew it to the front edge and let it run out to the cup, made the 6 footer for par (After the drive under the tree and 7 iron screamer running back into the fairway

      Reply

      sean

      4 years ago

      Yeah, grooving in those distances just coems with practice. I havn’t had too many opportunities to sit there on a practice hole working on that 9:00 shot. That’s really what I need! More time and practice.

      Nick

      4 years ago

      I had very similar lofts and yardages, I adjusted my wedge set up to
      45* PW
      48* GW
      54* SW
      60* LW

      By going to the stronger GW and SW Im now able to push the Gap to 130-132 and the SW to 115-118. This gives you a lot better gaping.

      As for the set debate, if you never open the face up I dont really see the advantage of a wedge vs set wedge. if you want to bring the flight down, I might try getting the JPX tour instead of a T20 but thats my personal opinion, I treat my PW as a 9/10 iron

      Reply

      Bobby

      4 years ago

      Sean –
      I play JPX 850 irons, and am a little shorter than you but a single digit handicap. I’ve always played four specialty wedges, and have recently ditched a longer club between my driver and 3 hybrid to add an additional wedge. The article didn’t talk much about gapping, but was my reason for going to a fifth. Inside of 130, my distance control is much more important than with longer clubs. Not sure the level you play to, but inside of 130 I have 6 clubs (including a knock-down 9) that give me 5 yard gaps between full, knock-down and controlled half shots all the way down to about 65 yards. Reading your yardages, that gapping won’t get you to 65 yards on any half/knock-down, but probably around 75 if I’m estimating right.

      I do it with 4* gaps starting at 60* (56*, 52*, 48*,46*, 42* Nine). 4* is my magic number for 10 yard gaps on full shots (by full I mean smooth, 80% – can’t say I ever try to smash a club at any of those lofts). I have only a two yard gap between 46* and 48* since I don’t really have a half shot option at that number. Since you’re a little longer, your gaps might be around 12-15 yards with that change, or perhaps you consider 3* gaps. You can buy at any of those lofts without bending if you’re looking for new or could tweak your existing (at $150ish a pop, not always a chance to upgrade all the wedges out of the gate).

      Around the green, I get at least two trajectories (low to mid) with each club, with the variety of green-side shots going up as the loft increases. This works for me, but hopefully a different perspective helps you get to your magic numbers inside 150.

      Reply

      sean

      4 years ago

      Awesome stuff, thanks for the reply!

      Travis

      4 years ago

      My advice would be to consider that the club marked PW really was a nine iron a few years ago. Personally, I have the following setup:

      9 iron – 160 yards
      PW (46 degree, set matched) – 145 yards
      48 degree Vokey – 130 yards
      52 degree Vokey – 120 yards
      56 degree Vokey – 110 yards
      60 degree Vokey – 100 yards

      I do this because well over half of my iron and approach shots are inside of 160 yards. This is where you score. Unless you are hitting a ton of long approach shots on your home course, I would suggest you drop a long iron and carry an extra wedge to reduce your yardage gaps in the scoring zone.

      Reply

      sean

      4 years ago

      This is interesting. Unless I’m playing in a 4-man scramble, I simply don’t hit my driver. It would be that or the 2i that I would bag. But if I did bag a long club, this is how I see my set up:

      60*
      55* > 56* [100-105 yard club]
      New 52* specialty (non matching) [115-120]
      50* > 48* (club is my GW, but 48* is ‘standard’ PW) [130-135]
      45* > 44* [[150 ish]
      40* 9i [165]

      Greg

      4 years ago

      25 yard gaps between 5* of loft is pretty extreme. Were you fit for those wedges? What shafts? First thing that comes to mind strictly focused on setup would be replace the 60* with a ~48* and then bend the 50 to 51*. Then you could either bend the 55 or not since you’re already using it more on partial shots. You’re giving up high loft around the greens, but it sounds like you’re losing more shots 100-150 yds than from your pitching.

      Of course, you can also change your set makeup based on the course/conditions you’re playing. Hard and fast might warrant losing the high-bounce wedge and putting in a high-loft, low-bounce option. Wet/soft and you have less need for a 60*

      Reply

      Sean

      4 years ago

      I was fit for a full bag at a club champion about 3 years ago, first time being fit.

      Have the ‘stock shaft’ (loking at my fitting chart right now), extra stiff.

      Yall have me thinking about adding that extra wedge now has me thinking which club would I drop? Doubtful I’d want to drop the 60 as that’s probably my favorite club around the green. When you miss as many greens as I do having the 60 helps.

      I simply don’t hit a driver right now. That’s the easy one to bag until I figure out how to actually hit it. I also have a 2i that I struggle mightilly with. Barely more accurate with that than my driver. So I’d bag one of those two. Per the comment above, if I did that, then bending the 55 to a 56, the 50 to a 52, the 45 to a 44 and adding a 48 brings my gapping from 5* from 40-60 down to 4*. That seems like the most logical idea?

      McaseyM

      4 years ago

      After about 4 rounds with my Cleveland Launcher CBX set PW and CBX 50, 55 and 60, i dropped the set wedge and picked up a 45 CBX (bent from 46) and never looked back. Distance has never been muchof a problem, but the feel and control with the 45 CBX was much better than the set wedge for me.

      Reply

      Brian Burdette

      4 years ago

      Nice article, I’m in process of buying new wedges. I do use my pitching wedge around the green. I never get the spin I like from set pitching wedge, maybe specialty wedge would help. Thanks.

      Reply

      Allen Rindfuss

      4 years ago

      I use my 9 iron and my 48 degree black magic wedge (no-shank). I am very good with these clubs and have very good feel with them which i feel is very important. I try not to use to many wedges because i feel sometimes a golfer gets confused on what degree to use.

      Reply

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