6 Facts You Need to Know About Golf Shafts
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6 Facts You Need to Know About Golf Shafts

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6 Facts You Need to Know About Golf Shafts

Is the golf shaft the most misunderstood piece of equipment in your bag?

I’d wager it is.

I have a buddy – several actually – who routinely drop $350 on a new shaft—all because a Tour pro used it to win last month or because his jackass friend (me) thinks it’s the best thing ever.

You probably know somebody like that. You might even be that guy.

Why is that so pervasive?

Golf shafts can be confusing

If there’s one thing in golf equipment that’s more mystifying than the plot of “Inception,” it’s golf shafts. Walk into any fitting center and you’ll hear terms like “tip-stiff,” “mid-kick” and “high-balance point” thrown around like they’re common knowledge. What if I told you most of these terms mean drastically different things depending on who’s saying them and which shaft they’re talking about?

As with many things in golf, the whole story is a bit more complicated so here are six things you need to know about golf shafts.

1. Flex is almost meaningless

I can’t count the number of times I’ve heard a guy say, “I need a stiff shaft.”

Cool. What model?

In reality, there are no standards defining shaft stiffness. With that, one company’s stiff is another’s regular and a third company’s X-flex. It’s also true that flex can even vary significantly within the same manufacturer’s lineup.

While flex can provide a general idea of stiffness, the fact is that flex is not a continuous thing. On a relative basis, some parts of the shaft are stiffer than others. It’s the totality of the bend profile (or the EI curve) that provides the best indicator of shaft stiffness over its full length. And that’s before we start talking about things like torque and balance point.

But, again, there are no standards.

2. As a fitting variable, swing speed is less important than you think

While, for simplicity, shaft flex often comes with recommended ranges (see above why that doesn’t transfer from one brand to the next), tempo, particularly in transition, plays a more important role in shaft fitting. Guys with 100 mph speed and abrupt or aggressive tempos often fit into X-stiff (for real X-stiff) while guys swinging at a smooth 115 fit can fit into softer shafts.

These are, at best, loose guidelines because, again, there are no standards defining flex.

3. Launch and spin performance characteristics are far from guaranteed

Shaft companies need to simplify things for golfers so nearly every shaft is described in terms of its launch and spin characteristics.

That can be dicey.

As my friend Ian Fraser says, “shafts don’t spin.”

What does it mean when a company describes a shaft as low launch and low spin?

More often than not, they’re hinting at the fact that the shaft has a firmer tip section but you, the golfer, play a significant role in the realities of launch and spin.

My favorite example is the Fujikura Ventus Black. It’s described as low-launch and-low spin and for some golfers it is exactly that but if the profile doesn’t work for you and you can’t square it up, it’s going to produce shots that are really high and spin like crazy.

Likewise, if the profile of a high-launch shaft promotes aggressive closing, it’s going to fly low with not a lot of spin.

To their credit, shaft manufacturers are getting better about acknowledging these realities. The Mitsubishi chart at the top of this section, for example, includes the disclaimer: Just because they are all plotted this way does not guarantee performance will follow these characteristics exactly. All golfers swing differently and load and deflect a golf shaft differently. This is why we recommend using this chart to get a baseline of where to begin, then working with a fitter to dial it in exactly.

4. They’re all made the same (mostly)

While, over the years, shaft companies have occasionally promoted the fact that their shafts are hand-crafted or hand-rolled, the fact is that almost every shaft of consequence is made by hand-rolling layers of pre-preg around a mandrel and then baking everything together.

There’s nothing inherently special about the process. It’s how (almost) everyone does it.

The exception is TPT which uses a continuous fiber-winding method but that’s a discussion for another day.

5. There’s still a lot to learn about shaft fitting

While shafts have been around as long as there have been heads to put them into, there’s still plenty to learn about shaft fitting. Nearly every fitter has their own method, FlightScope has done some cool stuff by looking at acceleration profiles and, most recently, TaylorMade has suggested the key to shaft fitting may lie in Foresight’s Closure Rate metric.

I’m not ready to say shaft fitting is the final frontier of performance gains but it is an area where there is still room for exploration and opportunity.

6. Margins border on absurd

So-called exotic shafts, the stuff most commonly used on Tour, are expensive: $350 and up. And while often the high-end stuff features more complex construction and more expensive material than OEM-grade aftermarket options (and definitely more than the made-for stuff still common to some club lineups), it doesn’t come remotely close to justifying the difference between the $350 retail price and the $15-$20 unit costs paid by the club manufacturers for their stock offerings.

You can chalk up the difference to the fact that the most popular shaft brands operate under multiple business models. On the OEM side, it’s a volume game with tight margins. They make it up on the consumer end of the equation where volume is lower but margins are significantly higher.

Some companies do little to no OEM business while others, like upstart Aretera (Callaway) and Graphite Design (Titleist), have partnered with OEMs on more sensibly priced (though far from inexpensive) premium stock options.

What to make of all this

Finding the right shaft is a lot like dating—what works for your buddy might be a disaster for you and sometimes the one that looks great on paper turns out to be completely wrong in practice.

Bruh, you shoulda swiped left.

The truth is that it’s not the shaft—it’s the fit.

So the next time you’re tempted by that “game-changing” $400 shaft that promises to all but eliminate spin and add 20 yards, ask yourself this: What would happen if you spent that money on a proper fitting with a professional who understands that the shaft is just one piece of a complex puzzle: your unique swing.

It’s not always about having the most expensive equipment. It’s about having the right equipment for you. It’s even possible that the solution you’ve been searching for came stock in your driver.

Hungry for more?

For a deeper dive into golf shaft material, design, and more, be sure to check out our Shaft University series.

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Tony Covey

Tony Covey

Tony Covey

Tony is the Editor of MyGolfSpy where his job is to bring fresh and innovative content to the site. In addition to his editorial responsibilities, he was instrumental in developing MyGolfSpy's data-driven testing methodologies and continues to sift through our data to find the insights that can help improve your game. Tony believes that golfers deserve to know what's real and what's not, and that means MyGolfSpy's equipment coverage must extend beyond the so-called facts as dictated by the same companies that created them. Most of all Tony believes in performance over hype and #PowerToThePlayer.

Tony Covey

Tony Covey

Tony Covey





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      cksurfdude

      5 hours ago

      “The exception is TPT which uses a continuous fiber-winding method but that’s a discussion for another day.”

      Newton Motion shafts, too .. have a similar process.

      Reply

      Tony Covey

      5 hours ago

      Can you point me to a link or source that explains the process to create Newton’s “proprietary Symmetry 360 design”. I haven’t been able to find any specifics, but I’m skeptical of any suggestion that it’s similar to TPT’s continuous fiber method. It’s more likely that they’re rolling the shafts the same as everyone else, and creating a clever marketing phrase to suggest a consistency advantage that may or may not be real.

      Reply

      Howard

      10 hours ago

      The knowledge about how shafts actually works is not new, and there is a Fitting concept developed based on this knowledge, who include much more than this. It was published on another Golf forum in 2013. It’s written in layman’s terms, so 2 ordinary players without any pre-knowledge of shaft and club fitting can use it, without the need for any advanced tools at all.

      https://forums.golfwrx.com/topic/960350-diy-driver-tune-up-diy-fitting/?do=findComment&comment=11543060

      Reply

      Ken

      21 hours ago

      For us tinkerers. Most big box golf outlets trade-in values are based solely on the club head. So you could see a two year old Taylor Made Stealth 3 wood with a 60 gram stiff Ventus Black on the used rack for $110. Fujikura recommends no tip trimming on driver and three wood. Presto they’re is your Ventus Black for your 5-7 woods (proper tip trim calculation required) or with an extension, your driver, or if you play shorter than regular length, there’s your driver shaft. Similarly, a driver shaft broken at the hosel can be salvaged for a three, five, or seven wood so develop a friendship with the repair guy and have him BOLO for those instances. Another thing, every year new product introductions of shafts causes fitters to have last year’s demo shafts becoming available. You can find last year’s VeloCore+s for $150-ish.
      Considering ball speed as the determining factor in flex…my driver ball speed is 115, so fitters would have me in a regular flex, but having scored Fujikura Ventus shafts via the above processes, I stripe my stiff Ventus Blue VeloCore+ driver and Ventus Black stiff three wood. Btw, Fukura Vista Pro regular flex in my irons. Yeah, I’m down with Fujikura.

      Reply

      Gil Bloomer

      21 hours ago

      As usual, very good article. It’s correct in that I’ve tried my preferred driver head in every Ventus shaft and, without question, the Ventus Red in regular flex checked all the boxes for my swing but, in my fairway woods the Project X Hzrdus Black Smoke in regular flex outperformed the rest of them with the Ventus Red a very close second. It pays to have your clubs checked with as many shafts as possible if you have the time.

      Reply

      Dr Tee

      1 day ago

      Outdoor fitting and hitting is the only way to select the proper shaft for YOUR swing and YOUR clubs. To take the automotive analogy to shaft selection: Remember, the shaft is the TRANSMISSION, you are the engine, and the clubhead is the tires. No transmission, no “go”. I personally believe that almost any driver head selection produced within the last 3-5 years is going to produce roughly similar and likely no distinguishable performance differences for the majority of recreational golfers inspire of OEM claims and hype.

      Reply

      Dave Sanguinetti

      2 days ago

      Tony always explains it correctly- listen to his advice for picking a new shaft! Unless you have gobs of money ang just love to tinker! If yes tinker away……

      Reply

      JKE

      2 days ago

      I’ve heard that the club head is far more important than the shaft.

      Reply

      OpMan

      2 days ago

      If you make heads, you would say that to sell it LOL
      Do not listen to or trust salespeople. We don’t need them.

      Reply

      Dr Tee

      1 day ago

      So, let’s see you hit a ball with a shaftless club head. Without a shaft, there is no way to transmit the energy of your swing to the clubhead.

      Reply

      James

      2 days ago

      I have been fit a few times for drivers. The last one was 3-4 years ago. The next time I take on the endeavor, I will either 1) find an outdoor facility or 2) find an indoor location that doesn’t use Trackman. Using Trackman indoors is borderline useless (i.e., for me everything is a fade, distances are wonky, etc.). If I’m spending $300-$500 on a shaft (on top of the $600 head), I need to see the ball flight with my own eyes. I live in the northeast, so it won’t be easy finding an outdoor location…but it’s the only way to get my money’s worth.

      Reply

      Willy

      2 days ago

      Well-said, being fitted outdoors is way more accurate.

      Reply

      Matt

      1 day ago

      Just use RCT balls when you get fit on Trackman. I bought a dozen and keep them lying around for whenever I hit on trackman indoors

      Reply

      Tony Covey

      1 day ago

      RCT balls mostly resolve Trackman’s ability to capture spin in limited flight environments. Unfortunately, even with RCT balls, Trackman struggles to capture spin axis. It’s most noticeable on toe (and heel strikes). Those toe draws that come back to the center in the real world will read as dead pushes or slices on Trackman in a limited flight setting.

      Frankly, anybody fitting indoors should be using a camera-based system.

      Greg

      2 days ago

      Thanks for clearing all that up. I’ve wondered at times if the cost of an exotic shaft, esp. for the driver, would be worth it. I know enough to get fit, and will stick with that. One less question to answer is a pretty rare outcome. Bravo!

      Reply

      WYBob

      2 days ago

      Tony: your article is a great refresher. There are valid ways to measure a shaft’s true flex: frequency flex charts that use a CPM measurement (ie. https://www.golfworks.com/frequency-flex-range-charts/). Most independent club builders can measure a shaft’s CPM for someone. Most shaft manufacturers provide Bend Profile charts/EI curves for their shafts. Where it gets tricky is finding information for the non “exotic”/after-market shafts. That, plus finding a standard metric for determining tempo. It appears the old shaft length issues have been resolved by the adoption of the USGA & RNA length measurement. Shaft standards are an area where MGS could provide a great service to the golfing community by helping push the OEMs and/or the USGA/RNA to establish standards beyond just length. Also by setting up a “Shaft Lab” similar to your Ball Lab to measure shafts “in the wild.”

      Reply

      storm3

      2 days ago

      The USGA/R&A equipment measurement standards are to aid in compliance to the regulatory limitations on that they impose (in this case maximum allowable shaft length), not for consumer benefit.

      Reply

      WYBob

      23 hours ago

      Understood the intent behind the measurement standard set by the USGA/R&A. My purpose in mentioning shaft length standards was to call out that standards are possible if the governing bodies or shaft manufacturers agree to the standard. The concept of establishing additional standards so comparisons between shafts still has merit even at the consumer level. Mizuno for example just adjusted their shaft length specs to conform to the USGA standard. Now we know that a standard spec’ed iron Mizuno is the same length as an iron from Callaway or Titleist. It would be great to know also that the flexes, torque, etc. for the shafts were also comparable. As Tony so aptly pointed out, “In reality, there are no standards defining shaft stiffness.” That’s what industry standards could resolve.

      WYBob

      23 hours ago

      Understood the intent behind the measurement standard set by the USGA/R&A. That said, the concept of establishing additional standards so comparisons between shafts still has merit even at the consumer level. My purpose in mentioning shaft length standards was to call out that standards are possible if the governing bodies or shaft manufacturers agree to the standard. Mizuno for example just adjusted their shaft length specs to conform to the USGA standard. Now we know that a standard spec’ed iron Mizuno is the same length as an iron from Callaway or Titleist. It would be great to know also that the flexes, torque, etc. for the shafts were also comparable. As Tony so aptly pointed out, “In reality, there are no standards defining shaft stiffness.”

      OpMan

      2 days ago

      Bleh. 😛
      Not enough, my man!
      What about droop?
      Torque?
      And then what happens when you cut a shaft to different lengths, tipped differently to the millimetre? If you tip a shaft it lowers kick point which could launch the ball higher (logic, if you chop the tip end it moves the kick point towards the head),, at the same POSSIBLY making the tip stiffer that MAY lower the spin.
      And then you put different weights at the end – different weighted heads, whether heavy or light, and then – the counter balance or not depending on if you use a thicker, heavier grip or a light one, or use an actual counterbalance inserted at the end of the shaft?
      Frequency only targets what YOU think you want to feel for YOUR own feel and swing. You may have a specific number that you want your clubs built – sure, it MAY work – but again what about the torque? Depending on the centre of gravity of the driver head the shaft could twist differently, same goes for the type of grip you put on, whether that makes it tighter in the hands or not………
      The CPM frequency built to that flow of the set MAY work but it’s no guarantee if works when you swap heads……

      Reply

      WYBob

      23 hours ago

      The point was to attempt to establish shaft standards, not build a club to your desired specs (or feel). If all the OEMs would agree to a CPM range for each flex, then the consumer would know that an “S” flex or an “R” flex from one brand is similar to another. I forgot about torque, but agree it would be valuable to have standards for measuring it. The only way I could see droop being included is if the USGA/R&A set a head weight standard and measured off that. All the other things you mentioned relate to a specific club build based on personal preferences (or fittings). They add variables outside the control of the shaft manufacturers. To reiterate, it would be nice to know an “S” flex shaft from Mitsubishi is approximately the same flex as one from Fujikura, GD, Oban, etc. If you have a better idea, let’s hear it.

      Rod

      2 days ago

      Hey Tony. Thanks for the article. It might be fun if you all listed the shaft specs in your “WITB” tabs as well so we could appreciate that aspect of golf gear geek-dom too.

      Reply

      Max

      2 days ago

      The fact that it is almost entirely pointless to hit your buddy’s driver after he has been fit for the latest and greatest is one of the worst things to happen to golf since I was a kid. I really miss demo days where you could try all the new stuff for fun. The at a minimum if you want to test anything out meaningfully you have to pay for a fitting. This also makes swallowing the $6-700 price tag of a new driver that much harder because you probably didn’t get to test too many alternatives. In tern that’s why MGS is so valuable.

      Reply

      Vito

      2 days ago

      Tony, great article. I have been fit in everything from an X to an A with good results. All depended on brand. Japanese clubs(Homna) shafts seem to be labeled at least 2 flexes stronger than how they actually act. The guys at Golfworks have a shaft flex measuring tool that they’ve used to show me comparative flexes; you are correct, there is absolutely no consistency. Thanks, for breaking it down in a way that makes sense.

      Reply

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