How to Change Golf Shaft Adapters
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How to Change Golf Shaft Adapters

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How to Change Golf Shaft Adapters

Unlocking the skill of changing golf shaft adapters can significantly broaden the horizons for golfers, enabling them to seamlessly switch between shafts and heads based on their preferences.

Fortunately, the process of changing golf shaft adapters is relatively straightforward, offering the flexibility to experiment with diverse shafts in different heads. This transformation has proven to be a game-changer, especially when encountering enticing sales on preferred shafts with mismatched adapters.

In this guide, we will walk you through a step-by-step process on how to change a golf shaft adapter, delving into essential tools, cleaning techniques and the installation of the new adapter, providing an accessible resource for golfers seeking budget-friendly ways to explore and experiment with new shafts and clubs.

Tools You Need:

Time To Complete

This is not a process to rush. Allocate adequate time for a proper job, allowing the epoxy to set as per instructions. The process should take around 20 minutes but most epoxy mixes should sit for a minimum of 30 minutes before use with many requiring 24 hours to fully cure. Read all epoxy instructions before starting.

Step 1: Set Up Your Workstation

Similar to regripping a golf club, take the time to properly set up your workstation. Have epoxy bottles, tape, sandpaper and a drill with a wire brush ready. Ensure the heat gun is plugged in and ready to go.

While some steps can be done later, having everything ready eases stress and potential frustration.

Step 2: Removing Old Adapter

Start by clamping the shaft into the puller and placing it into the vise. Apply on low heat evenly with the heat gun for 30 to 40 seconds to break the seal and warm the old epoxy for easy removal. Be careful not to overheat, especially with a graphite shaft.

Add torque via the puller to remove the adapter. OEM shaft savers or a screw and washer can be alternatives to avoid damage to the shaft and ferrules.

The adapter should slide off with relative ease. Once removed, place the hot adapter aside to cool and take the shaft out of the puller.

Step 3: Clean Shaft and Adapter

Old epoxy will be on the shaft and inside the old adapter. Clean these thoroughly to ensure consistency and a proper fit into the new adapter.

Use sandpaper to remove old epoxy without going into the graphite of the shaft. Use the drill and wire brush to clean the inside of the old adapter while the epoxy is still warm. Delaying this may make the removal process more difficult.

Note: Old epoxy may be in the bottom of the shaft tip. Use a small drill bit to create space for the new epoxy and air.

Once cleaned, take the new adapter and shaft and put them together for a dry fit. This will allow you to see if the adapter will go on properly and that the fit is exact. Marking the shaft at this point will tell you how far the adapter needs to go onto the shaft prior to full installation. This is also important for alignment with grip and shaft orientation.

Step 4: Ready The Epoxy

Before pouring the epoxy, place two strips of tape on the workbench or lay a piece of paper to protect the working surface. This will be where the epoxy is poured out in two equal parts and mixed together. Please note that different epoxies may have different instructions so read the label before starting.

Use a wooden stick to mix the epoxy for activation. Ensure it is mixed well and evenly for a better bond.

*Although optional, shaft beads help center the shaft and reduce play between the adapter and the shaft. Only a small pinch is required per install.

*For some adapters requiring ferrules, install the ferrule before epoxy and the adapter. For several other adapters, they are built-in or not required.

Step 5: Putting It All Together

Apply epoxy to the shaft and a little inside the adapter. Apply a generous amount of epoxy to the shaft with the stick or by twirling the club in the epoxy. 

Slide the adapter on while rotating it. This allows the epoxy to evenly coat the shaft. There should be a little resistance and, in some cases, an extra push is required to release any trapped air. 

If the adapter requires a ferrule, slide it down after the adapter is on. Excess epoxy will be pushed out. Use a paper towel to clean the excess from the adapter, ferrule and shaft. Tapping the adapter and shaft on the ground ensures the adapter is fully on with no gap. Check again for excess epoxy.

Step 6: Alignment and Wait

Check and finalize alignment as there is still time to make fine adjustments if required. Do this before the epoxy has time to set. Then place the shaft in a warm, dry area for the recommended epoxy curing period. Afterward, install the head, check alignment again and go hit some golf balls!

*Note: Different companies have different adapters (Titleist, PING, COBRA, Callaway, TaylorMade and others) with some having different adapters depending on the year of the driver head, hybrid head or fairway wood head. Double-check adapter compatibility before starting the process.

*There are systems like the All-Fit system that aim to make this process easier, avoiding several potential changes between a Callaway adapter, PING adapter and others. The All-Fit system uses one adapter with different collars allowing changes to be made without removing the adapter itself.

Cost

If you don’t have a vise, they can be found on Amazon for $20 to $30. The basic shaft puller is the most expensive but most useful tool in this entire process. I purchased my basic shaft puller for $144 and it has since paid for itself by saving hours of my time. Other equipment such as epoxy solutions ranging from $17 to $30 can be found online. Golf shaft adapters or sleeves can be purchased on Amazon, in golf shops and online for $8 to $12 per unit. A wire brush drill kit will generally cost less than $10.

A heat gun costs about $25. It can be used for many projects and is a worthwhile investment for any DIY golf club builder.

The OEM adapter saver kit is $10 but a screw and washer can be used instead.

Most of you likely have the other products, like tape and gloves. Starting from scratch would cost roughly $250. This may seem costly but these tools can be used for future golf club projects.

Changing golf shaft adapters opens possibilities for golfers seeking to optimize their equipment without breaking the bank. Though it requires time and an investment in tools and supplies, the process empowers enthusiasts to experiment with shafts and club heads. It also allows you to capitalize on sales or deals on preferred shafts, overcoming limitations imposed by proprietary adapters. Don’t let a fixed adapter limit your options. Embrace the freedom to explore and personalize your golf club configuration.

Enjoy this article? Let us know in the comments section below.

Want to learn more about club building? Check out our latest post about regripping golf clubs.

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      Bear

      5 months ago

      Great info. Also as mentioned check the tip for built up epoxy. As mentioned carefully drill it out and then I use a wire coat hanger, that I straightened out, to insert in the tip and push out epoxy. This way no loose epoxy rattles.

      Reply

      Josh Smith

      5 months ago

      Hi there, I wanted to thank you so much for your instruction on ‘HOW TO CHANGE GOLF SHAFT ADAPTERS.’ It was really, really revolutionary for someone like me. With your easy-to-follow step-by-step instructions, I feel like I can finally handle this golf gear stuff without losing my mind. Many thanks for making things accessible and realistic for us common people. I’m eager to use my updated setup on the course.

      Reply

      Mike

      5 months ago

      I’m not a DYI guy & this haven’t changed adapters much. But when I did, took it to my local golf store & it was maybe $8.

      Reply

      Kevin E

      5 months ago

      Great article, don’t see a need to do this personally, however I definitely see how for others this would be a worthwhile investment.

      Reply

      BillH

      5 months ago

      If the shaft was ‘Pured’ I would pay attention to the orientation of the new adapter. Puring for a Callaway adapter is desirable. Most other adapters involve complete rotation of the shaft to make adjustments so Puring is hit or miss unless you know the configuration you want before installing the new adapter.

      Reply

      BH

      5 months ago

      Great info, guys!

      Reply

      Keith Singleton

      5 months ago

      This is a VERY detailed article on how to add real flexibility to your bag. I would love to see more like this on “How To” build, modify and enhance performance and flexibility. Having different shaft options, and heads, will go a long way to improving performance at various times of the year (winter vs. summer). Thanks!

      Reply

      Chris

      5 months ago

      A great article for anyone, like myself, looking to tinker with DIY projects like this. I’ve been told that you can only change the adapter a few times before you put the shaft at of breaking. Any info on whether this is the case? I assume using too much heat in the beginning to remove the adapter will add excessive wear and tear as well but curious as to what a reasonable expectation might be for changing out adapters. Is the multi apadpter truly universal or will it only work with certain brands?

      Reply

      Clint Merrill

      5 months ago

      Very good and accurate instruction, follow directions and you will have no trouble at all. I have done this many times as I repair clubs for my local golfers.

      Reply

      Steve S

      5 months ago

      So, $144 for a shaft puller. Unless you plan on doing this a lot or just like doing it your self as a hobby thing this doesn’t make a lot of sense for most of us. I’ve pulled adapters and shafts without the shaft puller. It takes more patience and skill but can be done. The other thing is that I’ve had the local pro shop do it for $20. To make the shaft puller worth the money I’d have to do it more than 7 times. Haven’t pulled 7 shafts/adapters in the last 10 years.

      Reply

      CTG44

      5 months ago

      I swapped shafts (from heavy / junk graphite to quality UST Recoil F3) in my wife’s irons and wedges, which at $17.99 a club, paid for the cost of the https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-enhanced-graphite-shaft-extractor/p/gw1009/ in one operation. Since then, I’ve built and rebuilt my irons (put MMT125TX in my irons, and then redid them a 2nd time to fix swingweights), and have swapped shaft adapters like 5-6 times on various hybrids and fairways. In fact, I got 3 Tensei White AV FW / Hybrid shafts for my son and my for a total of $150 off Callaway Pre-Owned, and because 2 of our fairways were Titleist, I was able to swap the adapters over and saved us over $300 versus buying those shafts retail….and now my 3W is a bomber.

      Reply

      MyGolfSpy Forum

      5 months ago

      For sure. Each person will have to make their own cost benefit analysis on it. I am pretty sure I ended up pulling 40 plus adapters or and irons this season for my own personal use between 3 sets of irons and multiple golf shafts etc. It has without a doubt been worth it for me, however for some others it may be easier to take it to a shop!

      Reply

      League Golfer

      5 months ago

      I think for epoxy and many other golfing needs like grips and golf components, people in North America would be better served at Golfworks.com but our Canadian friends to the north would probably be best to shop at the link provided at Golfworks.ca. I wish mygolfspy.com would review some of the Maltby golf clubs.

      Reply

      MyGolfSpy Forum

      5 months ago

      The regions should change for the link. I will look at that! There are several sites which work and are good places to get that kit. Golfworks just so happens to be the one that I have used the most.

      As for Maltby, on the forum side we have reached out for member testing so time will tell!

      Reply

      Josh P.

      5 months ago

      Great read and something I need to start doing myself with the different shaft changes I have been making lately.

      Reply

      MyGolfSpy Forum

      5 months ago

      Thanks Josh and best of luck when you start doing some of these on your own!

      Reply

      Jon

      5 months ago

      Why not buy a new adapter for $40?

      Reply

      MyGolfSpy Forum

      5 months ago

      New adapters can cost a wide range from $10 and up. Then take it to the shop for install and depending on the shop they may or may not install it for free with the purchase. Personally I have loved being able to do this myself as I tried 5 or 6 different drivers this season and was able to change shafts and adapters around freely without much effort. Also cheaper than buying a new shaft!

      Reply

      glen o

      5 months ago

      Good article for the masses interested in doing some DIY at home.

      It is not good practice to use that much epoxy where a big glob comes squeezing out. Only a thin layer inside the adapter and on the shaft is needed. With that much epoxy you risk it going up the hole of the shaft essentially making it a tip weight and a point of failure. It has happened to me so just suggesting that is not good practice.

      Reply

      MyGolfSpy Forum

      5 months ago

      Good comment and thanks for the feedback! From past experience I have found some shafts which already have weight plugs or no gap at all for the adapter to have some resistance if air gets trapped when installing making it push back or slide off. Often a little extra twisting will do the trick, however for the shafts which already have epoxy hardened inside the shaft I will take a small drill bit to release that old epoxy allowing the install to go much smoother.

      Reply

      Jim Thomson

      5 months ago

      Make sure there isn’t a plug of old epoxy blocking the hole in the tip of the shaft if re-using a shaft. Immediately after removing the adaptor, take the shaft, place the butt end on the floor, and push the old epoxy plug back down into the shaft while it is still warm until it falls all the way to the butt end. Alternatively you could drill out the epoxy plug but be careful you don’t compromise the interior of the tip of the shaft. There has to be a route for trapped air to escape, otherwise, like you say, the trapped air will push a tight-fitting adaptor back a bit.
      Another suggestion: use a paper towel or facial tissue wet with mineral spirits to clean up excess epoxy. Much neater job than dry paper towel and mineral spirits is a non-flammable solvent.
      One last point: beware non-OEM or third party adaptors. They are generally cheap counterfeits and the quality can be suspect. I have a DIY friend who has had a couple of non-OEM adaptor failures, both associated with poor female threads on the adaptor. As usual, you get what you pay for.

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